Ahhh Bologna. How I miss you. And even more so, how I miss your food! Known as La Rossa, Grossa e Dotta, which translates to the red, fat and learned, because of the buildings’ beautiful red hue, the spectacular (but weighty) culinary options, and its reputation of having the oldest university in the Western world, this really is a city that has it all. I spent 6 months there as part of my year abroad in 2022, going only with the intention to improve my Italian and to sample some of the most renowned dishes in the world. I can safely say I achieved both of those goals. From my very first day there, I was treated to delicacy after delicacy, which ranged from hole-in-the-wall sandwich shops on the streets to some of the higher-brow restaurants the city had to offer. Below you will find a highly subjective but (in my opinion) well-curated selection of my favourite foodie spots in the city. While by no means exhaustive if you’re planning a trip I am sure it will come in handy.
First however, I will run through some of Bologna’s most treasured culinary traditions. Rumour has it that the region of Emilia Romagna where the city is located is the place actual pasta was invented. Given that pasta is potentially one of the world’s most beloved ingredients, that is quite an impressive claim. Speaking of pasta, one of the most famous dishes worldwide which has its origins in Bologna is the classic Spaghetti Alla Bolognese. Unfortunately, this doesn’t actually exist (except perhaps on the menus of the tourist-orientated restaurants). What you are really looking for is Tagliatelle al Ragù, which will be on the menu of every single restaurant in the city. A slow-cooked meat sauce paired with fresh pasta ribbons, it really is a treat. This is the dish I ate on my very first night in Bologna (how could I not?), and even though in hindsight I realised I had dined in perhaps the most touristy street of the whole city, the meal, in fact, was as incredible as I had dreamed it would be.
Another classic Bolognese dish to look out for is the tortellini. The origin of this dish is in dispute – those from Bologna will claim it was born there, but residents of neighbouring city Modena will swear that they invented it. Regardless of where it first came from, I can vouch that it is delicious. It typically will come filled with meat either in a meat broth or in a cream sauce. Perfect for a cold winter’s evening when you need something warm and comforting. While the best is, of course, homemade, you will doubtless find this dish on the menu in most restaurants in Bologna.
Finally on the pasta front – how can we not mention Lasagne alla Bolognese. It’s lasagna as you know it – but better. In Bologna, it is typically made with green pasta (coloured with spinach), and the same Ragù as before, slow-cooked to perfection. It is another classic you will find on any menu, and well worth a try if you’re in town. My mum’s lasagne has been my favourite since I was little (it’s on this blog in fact), but much to her dismay I have had to add this bolognese version into our recipe rotation too.
Moving away from pasta and onto lunchtime delicacies, the region is also home to a special sandwich bread called tigelle. These are little round discs of bread, printed with a flower design, which can be stuffed with any number of fillings, both savoury or sweet. The classic will be the cured or cooked meats of the area (more on that later), but these days you can find vegetarian options, amongst the various meaty choices. Delicious for a lighter snack (which is rare to find in this city!).
Cured and cooked meats are absolutely delicious in Italy, and Bologna is home to some of the best. The most classic is the Bolognese Mortadella, often peppered with pistachios, but you will also find Prosciutto crudo or cotto (cured or cooked), from nearby city Parma, which is famous all over the world. The best way to sample these is by ordering one of the tagliere (like a charcuterie board) from the menu in any restaurant – it will come as a board in varying levels of elegance, covered with thin slices of these meats and the different cheeses from the region. Look out below for my recommendations.
Now we have seen a tiny selection of some of Bologna’s most famous foodie delights, let’s have a look at my top 10 spots to eat in the city. We will cover pasta and pizza, breakfast spots, as well as dessert destinations and hidden gems.
For the pasta of your dreams:
There are SO MANY pasta restaurants in Bologna – look for any Trattoria or Osteria and you will be sure to find the main pasta dishes you’re searching for. However, here are a few of my favourite spots:
Ristorante Da Cesarini
Via Santo Stefano, 19/b, Bologna
If you’re after something a little up-market that feels fancier than normal head here. Located in my favourite square in the whole city, you can choose to either sit inside the traditional interior or in summer be placed on one of the outside tables that spill into the square. The pasta is delicious and the service is wonderful. You can head here for a special occasion. I have had the classic Tagliatelle al Ragù here, as well as their ravioli of the day, and both were fantastic. The risotto is also really delicious. The atmosphere is classy without being pretentious, and while it has the silver-service vibe, it won’t completely break the bank.
Osteria dell’Orsa
Via Broccaindosso, 7/a, Bologna
On the opposite end of the fancy scale, this restaurant which is popular with students will fit the bill if you’re after a cheap but tasty meal. Serving classic Bolognese fare for around 8€ a dish, you can’t go wrong. While you might have to wait in the queue outside – they don’t take bookings – it is well worth it for the decent portion size and delicious pasta they serve. The seating style is quite communal with benches on large tables and service is speedy – perfect for a delicious portion of pasta on a bit more of a budget. They serve all the typical pasta dishes, as well as some tasty desserts, and the popularity of the place definitely speaks volumes of its quality and value for money.
Osteria Broccaindosso
Via Broccaindosso, 7/a, Bologna
This is a place well off the tourist-beaten track – I came here on a recommendation for a local. We managed to get in without booking but I would definitely advise as it can get rather busy. Here you will find your classic Bolognese restaurant. All the traditional dishes await, and the quality of the food is delicious. The tiramisu is also dvine! I highly recommend.
Pizza spots:
Berberè
Via Giuseppe Petroni, 9c, Bologna
This is my favourite pizza spot. There are 2 locations, one in the centre near the student area, and one on the edge of the city by the southeast wall. It is hip and modern, but has some of the best pizza I have ever sampled. It might not be the most traditional of spaces, but it’s extremely popular, and the flavour combinations they have are really delicious. My whole family can’t seem to shut up about their tuna pizza with salsa verde, and we absolutely cannot resist heading here whenever we go to the city. A must-visit!
Span Pizzeria
Via Laura Bassi Veratti, 1h, Bologna
A no-fuss pizza restaurant run by Napoliteans which is located a little out of the city. If you head just a short walk down the main street outside of the city walls, you will find this fantastic pizza spot. Another one where it is recommended to book as it is really popular, you will find some of the most delicious pizzas in the city. The staff are super friendly and clearly enthusiastic about their craft. It really is delicious, and at a great price point too.
Coffee and a cornetto?
Pasticceria Santo Stefano
Via Santo Stefano, 3a, Bologna
Another food spot located in my favourite piazza of the city – this one is always packed with locals. It’s always super busy, but Italians don’t tend to linger too long for breakfast, so if you keep your eyes peeled you can grab an outside table on the street and soak up the views of the square. You have to be brave here – the bar is always busy and it can be confusing to see where to order at times, but if you persevere you will be rewarded with a delicious coffee and some of the nicest pastries in town. My go-to for breakfast is always the cornetto al pistachio (a pistachio cream-filled croissant), and a coffee, but there are heaps of delicious pastry and cake options, both sweet and savoury, to sample.
Cafe Terzi
Via Guglielmo Oberdan, 10d, Bologna
There are numerous locations for this little coffee branch in town, some with more seating options than others. They have a lengthy list of coffee extending far beyond the Italian classic espresso, with loads of interesting flavours and combinations to try. They also have tasty pastries (but be quick as they sell out early), but there will always be jars full of tasty biscuits to have with your hot drink. The coffee itself is very high quality and delicious, and the staff are always happy to chat about what to try next!
A bite for lunch
Green huts Sandwiches
I actually have no idea what this sandwich shop is called but TRUST me you have to go. It is located in Piazza Aldrovandi (known by my friends and I as the green huts), which is a selection of restaurants and permanent food markets with outdoor seating in the square. The sandwich shop is often packed at lunchtime, especially with students, but they go through the queue super quickly so you never have to wait for long. They have an extensive menu of delicious filling options, and you can have your sandwich toasted. The portions are generous and prices range from about 4-6€, and I can confirm they are absolutely delicious. If you don’t speak Italian it’s no problem, as you order by writing your sandwich choice name on a little piece of paper (there are English translations on the menu on the wall) and give it to the member of staff with your name. They have an entire section of the menu dedicated to Porchetta sandwiches (which according to me is a top-tier meat option), but there are plenty veggie options with an array of cheeses and other fillings such as sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes, pesto, aubergine, and much more. A must-go in my opinion!
Mò Mortadella Lab
Via de’ Monari, 1C, Bologna
If you are after your Instagram-worthy foodie moment, this is the place for you. This hole-in-the-wall sandwich shop located off a side street right in the centre of town makes sandwiches PACKED with an insane amount of fillings. The classic is the traditional Bolognese mortadella, but the options are endless. This is another one where you might face a queue, but the wait is worth it. Make sure to snap a picture before you tuck in!
La Prosciutteria
Via Guglielmo Oberdan, 19a, Bologna
Another social-media hot spot, but that doesn’t sacrifice taste or quality – this very centrally located spot that specialises in meat and cheese boards deserves a place on your to-visit list. The boards are customisable – you can have meat only, or cheese only, or opt for a mix with other additions such as olives and breadsticks, but the portions are extremely generous. They come sharing style – you say how many people are there and they tailor the board to feed you all. You get to sample all the classic and high-quality meats and cheeses of the region, and in a really cool spot too. You can opt to sit inside the traditional wooden-clad interior, or sit outside and enjoy the sunshine if the weather permits. The staff are lovely here as well.
Something sweet?
Cremaria La Vecchia Stalla
Via Santo Stefano, 14a, Bologna
Let’s be real, if you’re after something sweet after your lunch or dinner in Italy, you can’t go far wrong with a gelato. This is one of my absolute favourite gelaterias, which has LOADS of amazing flavours to choose from. Plus it’s located once again in my favourite square of the city, meaning you can head here right after one of my other recommendations! Day or night, you can stroll through the piazza, gelato in hand, and sit on a wall people-watching. There is no better feeling. Regardless of the spot, my go-to flavour is always pistachio – if you have a major sweet tooth then this place does a special flavour called pistachio cremoso (think frozen Nutella but pistachio-flavored), but it’s not for the faint-hearted! Whatever you choose you can’t go wrong, as all the options also have English translations underneath. On my last day in Bologna I had 3 gelatos from this very shop, and no, I did not regret a single one.
Gelateria Santo Stefano
A stone’s throw from my last option, this place is something special. The shop has a luxurious feel to it, not only selling gelato but hand-crafted chocolates and other sweet treats too. I again recommend the pistachio (biased, I know), as these guys source some seriously good quality ingredients. If you walk two doors down, you will find their factory where they make all their goodies, so you can actually see the process which is really cool! A hidden gem a tourist might miss!
So there you have it! This is only a tiny snippet of what Bologna has to offer – I encourage tranquil strolls through the streets so you can find your own hidden gems and favourites! The fresh produce on offer is also amazing – if you have access to cooking facilities, it’s also worth spending a night sourcing some fresh ingredients and seeing what you can cook for yourself! But if you arrive and struggling to know where to start, I hope my list can be helpful. Let me know if you try any of these places and what you think!